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December 5, 2012
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:icondamascus5:
TFsean requested to see the creation process of Lady Paradoxia which reminded me that it's been a long time since I posted such a piece. So here's a twelve stage breakdown of the creation with basic notes. Cheers

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:iconmarcsampson:
~Marcsampson Jan 5, 2013  Professional Digital Artist
wow so great
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:iconstargatekrewe:
How did you get involved with Applibot? They contact you out of the blue? What did they ask for? How much back and forth was there before the image was accepted? More work in the pipeline?? Cheers
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:iconnoir6647:
~Noir6647 Dec 11, 2012  Hobbyist
assuming you use a table/wacom.. when doing the monochrome tone part, is it a pressure sensitive painting style? or is it, select a dark grey for the cool area then switch to a light grey for warmer area (etc.)? same question for the basic color part as well if you could. i'm led to think since it as such a realistic color feel to it, it seem like the first one.. ha So Intense

like Magic Card art, but better.
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:iconmono22chrome:
~mono22chrome Dec 10, 2012  Hobbyist Digital Artist
I've always had a problem painting out the line art. Do you have a quick advice on ditching the line art without ruining the dimensions of a subject in the drawing?
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:iconbudiana:
I fell in love with this piece, so I'm happy you posted a process! Thanks for being awesome and answering to everyone's comment, not a simple task..
I do have a few questions.. when you mask areas off, how detailed do you get? (For example metal stuff will sub-layers for highlights or reflections..)
And what's the ratio between painting and using Photoshop-y stuff such as adjustment layers and all that for you?
thankss
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:iconqying:
great !well done
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:icontrace007:
~Trace007 Dec 6, 2012  Student General Artist
This is awesome!

I do have a question though, if that's ok: In going from monochrome to colors, how would you get warm lights/highlights? When painting skin I usually like my lights to be warm and my darks to be cool. Whenever I try adding color to black and white, the lights will stay white, not the bright saturated version of my color choice. As in, my colors don't have warm/cool variation. Normally I just have to saturate the bright areas on my own, but it's such a pain.

I hope my question wasn't too jumbled.

Also, by metal textures, do you mean that you just painted the metal, or that you used texture overlays and painted over those?
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:icondamascus5:
*Damascus5 Dec 6, 2012  Professional Digital Artist
I may be misunderstanding your question and if so feel free to rephrase but let me take a jab at it.
When I move from monochrome to color I do so using a Color layer over my greys. The Color layer will only adjust the chroma and saturation of anything beneath it but it will not adjust its value (how light or dark it is). It is at this point that you can encounter an interesting problem, I believe the same one you speak of as "the lights will stay white". White and black are both very cool colors (temperature-wise) and have no capacity to carry chroma to be warm. It doesn't matter if you put straight orange on a Color layer over white, the white will remain a cool color because color requires some amount of darkness and white has none. That's why the most saturated colors are midtones, anything lighter will start removing chroma and anything darker will dilute it with black. To get around the problem you have to paint the lights a bit darker so the color added later will have some value to carry the chroma.
I meant that at the "metal textures" stage I simply painted the elements made of metal, I used no texture overlays.
Let me know if that answers your question.
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:icontrace007:
~Trace007 Dec 6, 2012  Student General Artist
Perfect answer, I was wondering myself if going too white was the problem. thanks a lot for the advice, and the quick reply!
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:iconnekothunder:
~NekoThunder Dec 6, 2012  Student Digital Artist
That's amazing to see, great drawing!
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